13. Ropeway Review: Mt. Komagatake (Hakone)

For some of Japan's best views, I recommend taking the ropeway from Hakone-en to the top of Mt. Komagatake, Hakone's highest mountain (1357 meters high). On a clear day, the view includes the Izu Islands, Hakone, Lake Ashinoko, the coastline north to Kamakura and south to Shizuoka, and an amazing Mt. Fuji.

Most people purchase the 'Hakone Free Pass', when getting around Hakone. It includes a ride on a different ropeway that takes you up and over the famous 'great boiling hell', Owakudani. The Free Pass is definitely a great bargain, but if you drive to Hakone, or if you want to do something different, the Komagatake Ropeway is a good choice!

In addition to stunning views, there is a small shrine at the top of the mountain, and there are some great hiking trails for those who are more adventurous. Weather is extremely important, however. Don't take the ropeway if the day is not clear. There is nothing on the top but view, so if it is cloudy or you can't see the top of the mountain from the bottom, you'll waste your money and your time.

Ropeway Fees: one way: 620 yen, 320 for children, round trip: 1,050 yen, 530 for children

Hours of Operation: 9:10 - 16:50

Phone: 0460-83-6473

Japanese only website for the Hakone-en Complex, which includes the ropeway:

http://www.princehotels.co.jp/amuse/hakone-en/

12. Hot Springs Review: Kappa Tengoku (Hakone)

Everytime I passed through Hakone Yumoto Station, I'd look up and see Kappa Tengoku perched on the hillside above. I'd always sat to myself, "I have to check that out someday", but it never happened.

Finally, after a recent excursion, I decided to give it a try. Kappa (a mythical water goblin) and Tengoku (heaven) do make for good invitation afterall.

Kappa Tengoku is actually a small ryokan which opens its hot springs bath to the general public for a small fee. The inn does not seem to have its own English website, but it is advertised on a number of inexpensive lodging booking sites. It is very cheap by Japanese standards, one site stated 6600 yen with breakfast and dinner included! But, I can't comment on the inn itself, only the bath.
I guess it is all up to interpretation. Rustic or run-down? I'm afraid I have to go with the latter. Although I liked the winding 'spooky' staircase leading up the inn, I was very disappointed with the bath itself.

Upon entering Kappa Tengoku, I was greated by a friendly Japanese lady. I paid the bath fee and purchased a small towel. I made my way up to the changing room, which was more like a shed with mirrors. The room dingy and was freezing. There were metal lockers for your clothing and valuables, they were very rusty and had obviously seen better days. The first locker I tried wouldn't even lock.

Anyway, I quickly scampered out the door to the bath. On looks alone, it was really nice. Made of stone, open to the woods behind, I forgot about the changing room. Unfortunately, the water itself is lukewarm, and the rocks under the water were a little slimy.

I've been in hundreds of hot springs baths around the country. Although Kappa Tengoku does have some 'atmosphere', it is the worst bath I've ever been to. Hakone is full of incredible hot spring baths; don't choose this one.

Location: Just behind Hakone Yumoto Station. Follow the lanterns and signs.

Entrance fees: I can't remember, but I believe around 700 yen. Extra for the towel.

11. Museum Review: Hakone Glass Forest (Hakone)

The 'Gurasu no Mori', or Glass Forest Museum was built to showcase an incredible collection of Venetian glass. Italian-style buildings surround a beautiful garden, and it is all built into the mountainside. It is my absolute favorite museum in Hakone, and that is saying something!

Upon entering the grounds, cross the small bridge into the building on your left. This is the main museum, and it is full of Venetian glass from the 15th to 18th century, displayed in a 'castle-like' interior.

Cross an outdoor courtyard and next you'll enter a small section of modern Venetian glass and a wonderful (and very tempting) museum shop. The shop has enough of a selection to be a part of the museum exhibition itself.

Although the museum pieces themselves are excellent, the grounds are really special. Built around a slightly circular pond resembling a canal, every season is different as trees change and flowers bloom.

Opposite the main museum is a small water mill which houses a homemade honey, jam, and snack shop. The, there is the Cafe Terrazza'. I love sitting at this open-air cafe overlooking the garden, moutains rising in the background. You can even see a little of the sulfur smoke of Owakudani from here! It gets even better when the live Canzoni (Italian ballad) performances begin.
Admission: Adults: 1,300 yen, Univ/High School students: 1,100 yen, Children 800 yen

*There are 100 yen discount coupons all over Hakone (in restaurants,...). There is also a discount if you have the 'Hakone Free Pass'.

Hours: 9:00 - 17:30, open 365 days a year.

Address: 940-48 Sengokuhara, Hakone-machi, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa-ken 250-0631
Phone: 0460-6-3111

Website: http://ciao3.com/

10. Garden Review: Hakone Ashinoyu Flower Center

The Hakone Ashinoyu Flower Center is a small botanical garden whose specialities are begonias and foreign orchids. The attraction has seen better days, but if you are interested in flowers, stop by and have a look. It is a nice, quiet place to wander around and relax, especially if it's a crowded weekend in Hakone.
There are three buildings and an outdoor garden. Building One has a 200 year old gajuramu tree, a large display of begonias, a plant nursery, and a small snack bar. Building Two focuses on foreign orchids. Building Three, tropical plants and fruits. Paths connecting the buildings are lined with cactus, bug-eating plants,... In addition, special rare plant exhibitions are held 4 times a year. Address: 84-55 Ashinoyu, Hakone
Phone: 0460-83-7350

Hours of Operation: 9:00a.m. - 4:30p.m.(Extended hours permitted for groups)
Free parking area for up to 40 cars and 5 buses.

Admission: Adult 600 yen / Children 6 to 12 are 400 yen
Group(over 20 people) Adult 450 yen / High School Student 400 yen / Primary &Jr. High School Student 300 yen /Kindergarten 150 yen.
Individual primary & Jr. High School students are free on Saturday, Sunday, and national holidays.

9. Museum Review: Tamamura Toyoo Life Art Museum (Hakone)

The Tamamura Toyoo Life Art Museum is a recent addition to Hakone's many museums, and it is a good one. Born in 1945, Toyoo Tamamura paints very simplistic watercolors, mostly clusters of flowers or fruit. Never a big fan of these types of paintings, I found Tamamura's paintings to be quite impressive. We only decided to enter the museum after looking around the gift shop. Everything was lovely so we figured 'Why not?'. Inside, the museum is larger than it looks from the outside. In addition to flowers and fruit, there were paintings of animals, landscapes, and Parisian cityscapes. The museum was quiet, even on a Sunday during the summer Obon holiday, and we were able to spend as long as we liked viewing each piece.
There is a very nice reading room located in the back of the museum. In the same complex is an Italian restaurant, 'Acqua Pazza Terrace', with indoor and outdoor tables, all with views of the lake. The museum is housed in a brand new glass building right on the edge of Lake Ashi, in Moto Hakone.Museum Entrance Fee: 500 yen

Address: Kanagawa-ken, Hakone-machi, Moto-Hakone 61 250-0522

Phone: 0460-83-1071

http://www.tamamura-museum.co.jp/home.html

8. Hotel Review: The Fujiya Hotel - Miyanoshita (Hakone)

One of the oldest resort hotels in Japan, The Fujiya Hotel in Miyanoshita, Hakone is a treasure. First opened in 1891, the Fujiya was Japan's first 'Western style' hotel. In its heyday, this was 'the' place to stay. General McArthur, Charlie Chaplin, and Helen Keller are just a few famous visitors to the hotel. There are many things to like about the Fujiya, but the top three are:
1) Atmosphere - how often do you get to explore, and then stay in, a hotel over 100 years old?
2) Service - it is absolutely fantastic.
3) Amenities - even if you don't see anything else in Hakone, the Fujiya will keep you occupied.

Fujiya Hotel accommodates a maximum of 300 guests in 146 western style guest rooms in 5 different hotel buildings: Main Building (1891), Comfy Lodge (1906), Restful Cottage (1906), Flower Palace (1936) and Forest Lodge(1960); and in 3 Japanese rooms at Kikka-so Inn, a former imperial villa (1895). The Fujiya's Restaurant House (1930) and all of the buildings mentioned above (except the Forest Lodge) have been designated 'Cultural Assets' by Japan's Cultural Properties Protection Commission.

The Fujiya Hotel is a vast complex. Hidden within are two small 'shopping salons', a hotel museum, chapel, indoor hot springs swimming pool, hot springs bath, relaxation corner, tea lounge overlooking the garden, banquet room, party room, the bar 'Victoria', an outdoor pool (open only in summer), traditional Japanese garden, and a green house. They also have their own bakery shop, 'Picot', just in front of the hotel.
Having lunch or dinner in the main 'Fujiya' dining room is an experience, but a costly one (4500 for lunch, from 11,550 for dinner - no drinks included). If you have the money to spend, I recommend it. I especially like that everyone dresses up for the traditional french cuisine dinner!

I would also recommend having some tea in the lounge, or just hang out in the lobby and watch the parade of guests. Live piano often sets the tone. The bar 'Victoria' also occasionally has live music performances. This is a REAL bar, not to be missed! For the best deal, hit their happy hour from 5 to 7 pm, where drinks are 20% off and there in no cover charge. Normally the cover charge is 525 per person. When I was there, they were running an interesting special. It was called 'Cocktail Paradise' and it was all you can drink + snack foods + no service charge, for two people - 7,777 yen. Not bad if you consider that most drinks are about 1000 yen.

In the summer months there is also an outdoor bar during the daytime. It is 'Tiki' style and occasionally you might witness a wedding pass by as you enjoy your drinks!
One of my favorite things to do in the Fujiya is swim. The indoor pool is fed by natural hot springs and is open from 9am to 9pm. Don't forget your swimsuit, though, or you'll have to rent one that resembles what your grandmother used to wear. You'll need a swimming cap as well (they can also be rented). The outdoor pool is also great, but the water is really cold. It has to be a really hot summer day in order to enjoy it.

In the 'relaxation corner, sign up for a foot therapy massage (1,050 per 10 minutes). Regular massages are also available (40 minutes for 4,200 yen, 4 pm to 11:20 pm). For families or couples who want to enjoy a naked hot springs bath together, the 'Mermaid Bath' can be rented. The cost is 2,100 yen for 45 minutes.

You can make a regular reservation at the Fujiya, or there are a number of plans to choose from. The best value is the '129 Year' Anniversary Plan. It is only available to holders of foreign passports and is 129 US dollars + 10% service charge, for a twin room (1 or 2 people), no meals included. This plan is not available from August 5 to August 25, or over the New Year's holidays. For a Saturday night stay, add $50.
There is a 'Basic Plan' that includes breakfast that is also reasonable. From 10,700 yen per person, based on double occupancy. Saturdays are from 14,900 yen.

All rooms are spacious and full of character, and the water for your private bathtub is also from a hot spring.

The entire Fujiya Hotel complex is fascinating. It is as if you have truly taken a step back in time. The service is also some of the best I've ever seen in Japan, and that is saying something! The Fujiya truly is in a class by itself, I recommend it as the absolute best place to stay in Hakone.

Check their website for details, in English:
http://www.fujiyahotel.jp/english/index.html

The Fujiya Hotel

Kanagawa-ken, Ashigarashimo-gun, Hakone-machi, Miyanoshita 359 250-0404

0460-82-2211 *There is English speaking staff, so English phone inquiries are not a problem.

7. Museum Review: The Little Prince Museum (Hakone)

The book 'The Little Prince' was published in 1943, and has been translated into more than 140 languages. It was written by Antoine de Saint-Exupery, who was born on July 29, 1900 in Lyon, France. He grew up and lived in the castle of Saint-Maurice-de-Remens, and he participated in the war both as an aviator and as an author. Upon entering this museum, you are transported into France, early 1900's. The alleyways and gardens are really lovely. There is also a small chapel which is a reproduction of one neighboring the castle that Saint-Exupery grew up in. Look for the rose and fox motifs hidden in the stained glass.Inside the buildings are the museum, photos and letters tell the story of Saint-Exupery's life, with re-creations of rooms he worked in, city streets in Paris,... Almost everything is in Japanese, but it is still interesting, especially if you are a fan of the book.

There is also a small theater (decorated as a desert), that documents the story of The Little Prince and the life of its author. It is only in Japanese.

There is a nice restaurant on site, the 'Restaurant Le Petit Prince'. Enjoy casual French style cooking from Monsieur Okabe, who defeated Iron Chef Sakai in a lamb battle on the Japanese TV program Iron Chef. The menu includes fresh organic vegetables purchased from contracted farmers, pork and chicken raised in the vicinity of Hakone, and fresh fish shipped direct from Odawara's fishing port.

Indoors there is seating for about 70, outside there is a garden side terrace with 40 seats, and there is also a parking lot side terrace with 44 seats.

Cafe time = 10:00AM to 11:00AM

Lunchtime = 11:00AM to 6:00PM (Final orders 5:00PM)

Dinner time (6:00PM to 9:00PM) - offered only during: Golden Week(April 28 to May 5)Summertime (from August 5 to August 20), and Christmas (December 23 to 25)

There is also a small terrace cafe, the 'Cafe Le Saint Germain des Pres'. It is modeled after the 'Brasserie Lipp', a cafe that Saint-Exupery would frequent when in Paris. The menu includes beverages (coffee, tea, soft drinks), as well as hotdogs and cakes. There are 9 indoor seats and 34 terrace seats.

I was not really familiar with the book or the author, but I enjoyed wandering around France for a couple of hours. That said, I wouldn't recommend this museum for visitors to Japan - go and visit something more Japanese! But, if you live in Japan, it is an interesting spot to visit. The only negative is the lack of English explanations, it is best to become familiar with the author and book before visiting.

Address: 909 Sengokuhara, Hakone-machi, Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa-ken
Phone: 0460-86-3700

Hours of Operation: 9:00 - 18:00 (last entry at 17:00)

Directions:

*Train and bus - Approximately 30 minutes by Hakone Tozan Bus from the Hakone Yumoto station on the Odakyu line. Get off at the Kawamukai Museum of The Little Prince bus stop. *By Car - Approximately 20 minutes from the Tomei Expressway Gotenba Interchange. There are 112 parking spaces, free on weekdays, weekends and holidays 300 yen.

*Express buses run through Shinjuku and Ikejiri. Get off at the Kawamukai bus stop (in front of the museum). For details, see the Odakyu Hakone Highway Bus home page.

Admission:

Adult 1,500 yen (purchased in advance: 1,300)
Senior (60+) 1,100 yen (purchased in advance: 900)
Univ. or High School Student 1,100 yen (purchased in advance: 900)

Junior (6 - 15) 700 yen (purchased in advance: 600)

*Student prices apply only if a student ID card or similar is presented.

*They do not sell advance tickets at student and senior prices. Present student ID or similar on the day of your visit, and you will be refunded 400 yen.